Machine-braided lace



May 19, 1925;

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Patented May 19, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EMIL Bsmanox, or BARMEN, GERMANY, AssIGNon 'ro MAX HENKELS, or NEW YORK, N. Y.

MACHINE-BRAIDED LACE.

Application filed `Tune 5,

which is manufactured on the so-calledsingle-thread lace-braiding machine, that isY on a machine of the type generally described yin British Patent No. 11,411 of 1894- to Malhre, and which has leaf-like figures which are arranged in gaps or meshes in the lace-ground and are situated at right angles Y to the longitudinal direction of the lace and are connected with the remaining portions of the lace only at their two ends.

In manufacturing such lace by mechanical means the method adopted hitherto, similar to that in hand-braiding has been this, that the leaf-like figures or leaflets, arranged first of all with their longitudinal axes parallel to the longitudinal direction of thelace` are formed with the aid of a plurality of threads led out from the ground or the remaining portions of the lace and running partly in the longitudinal direction of the. figure, and partly in the transverse direction thereto, and are then set at right-angles to the longitudinal direction of the lace, where upon the threads forming the figures arc again worked into the ground or into the remaining portions of the lace. This mode of operation is tedious and time-absorbing because, on the one hand, the figure must be worked in the direction of its longitudinal axis and during this time the work on the remaining portions of the lace must be stopped, and on the other hand, after the completion of the figure, the fabric must be moved backwards in order to place the figure transversely. This requires moreover a long jacquard card and draw-off mechanism arranged in a special manner with an upwardly and downwardly movable mandril.

According to the invention the manufac ture of leaf-like figures which are situated with their longitudinal axes at right-angles to the longitudinal direction of the lace and are arranged in gaps or meshes in the ground and which are connected only at their ends with the other portions of the lace is very 1924. Serial No. 718,026.

considerably simplified, in that these figures consist of a plurality of threads which are arranged in the form of arches and each of which enters into the figure at one end of the latter and passes out again at the same end, and of a plurality of threads running to and fro in the figure in the longitudinal direction of the latter, which threads are bound lin `the manner' of O weft with the arched threads. The lat-ter threads can be secured in position in part by means of crossings between them of the threads running to-andfro inthe longitudinal direction, and in part by means of the return-loops formed by the latter threads. In order to obtain leaflets with pointed ends,.the threads running toand-fro in the longitudinal direction of the figure extend preferably only in the middle of the figure throughout its entire length, whereas at the sides. of the figure they eX- tend over only a portion of the length of the latter.

By the new construction of leaflet arranged with its longitudinal axis at right angles to the longitudinal direction ofthe lace the manufacture of lace having such figures is rendered more economical than heretofore, since, on the one hand, during the formation of the figure, the production of the remaining portions of the lace need notbe interrupted, the figure being able to be pro duced simultaneously with those portions of the lace which, viewed laterally, lie adjacent to the same, and since on the other hand, the figure from the first takes it appointed position in the lace-and is consequently worked in the direction of its short axis, whereby at the same time the jacquard-card is very considerably shortened, and because finally since the lace can be drawn off in the usual manner even during the production of the figures situated at right angles to the longi tudinal direction of the lace, a lspecial construction of draw-off mechanism is no longer re uired.

ne embodiment of the invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing, wherein Fig. 1 shows a piece of the lace at about actual size, and

F ig. 2 a fragment of the lace on a much enlarged scale. p

The embodiment shown is a lace insertion with parallel longitudinal edges l, 2 the wide-meshed ground of which lace is formed of braidedlstrips 3. The` rnain pattern o1 the lace consists of leaf-like figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, l0, 1l which in each instance are arranged in groups of eight figures in the form of thel spokes ot a ivheel and are surroiinded by a braided ring 12, so that together with the latter they represent a wheel. T he Fig-l ures 4, 8 situated with their lngitudinal axis parallel to the longitudinal direction of the lace as Well as the Figures 5, 7, and 9, 11 situated with their longitudinal axis in a diagonal direction are formed in' the usual manner, that is,- they consist each of three threads a, I), c running in the longitudinal direction of the figures and ot a fourth thread which is passed t0 and tro betiveen the' longitudinal threads a, b, c transversely with respect `to the figure and is braided with these threads. See especially the right of F 1g; 2.

The Figures 6, l0 situated with their lon-A gitudinal axisat right angles to the longitudinal direction of the lace are, hovvever, formed in a novel manner. As the middle of Fig. 2 particularly shows, they consist according to the invention of, for example, four threads j, g, 7L, z' arranged in the forni of arches and of, for example, two threads 1', m Yconducted to-and-fro in the. longitudinal direction of the leaflet. Half of the arched threads are led into the figure at one of its ends and halt of thein at its other' end and each arched thread leaves the figure again at the end at which it entered. rihus the threads g enter the figure at the inner end of the same in order to leave it again also at the inner end, While the threads L, enter and leave at the outer end. The threads 7c, m running toeand-ifro in the longitudinal direction may, on the other hand, all enter the' figure at the inner end thereof and also leave the same again at this end. The threads 7c, m, which run to-and-fro, are connected in the manner of weft with the arched threads f, g, L, z' and at places, tor

example at n and 0,- eross one another b'etween two arched threads. Owing t0 these inter-crossings as Well as owing in part to the returnlloops of the threads 7s, m the arched threads f, g, h, z' are secured in position in the figure so that they lcannot be displaced therein. l

In order to give the4 iigure at its ends as pointed a shape as possible, that is, to give it the proper form ot a leaflet, the threads 7c', m are led to-and-'t'ro in the middle or' the iigure throughout its entire length, While at the sides oi the ligure they extend 'only over a portion of the length of the figure. In the embodiment shown the outer end of the leaflet is made pointed or tapered in vthis inanner. Obviously the arrangement nray be such that the figure is pointed at both ends. In this case ifrnecessary the threads It, m running to-and-fro 4in the longitudinal directiener the figure instead if beth entering the figre at the inner end may in part enter at the outer end and leave it again at the outer end. l V l y Ot course many modifications of the embodiment shown are possible without affect ing the essence ot the invention. In partieular, the number of the arched threads and of the threads Which run to-and-fro may dit-- fer from the number shown.

I claim:

l. Method ot producing braided lace wherein open spaces are filled with leaf-like patterns, the leaves extending in a direct-ion substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis ot the lace, which method conipris'es the arranging 'of sets 'of threads With arch-shaped sections Within said Open spaces, entering and leaving the' lea-ves atone and the same end, and interbraiding said arch sections in 'a wett-like nia-nner with transversal threads, the latter running substantially at right angles thereto.

2. Method oi' producing braided lace wherein open spaces are iilled with leaf-'like patterns, the leaves extending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal airis ot' the lace, which method comprises the arranging ci sets of threads with archshaped sections' Within' said open spaces, entering and leaving the leaves at one and the same end,- an'd interbraiding said arch sections in a Wett-like manner with transversal threads, the latter ruiming substantially at right angles thereto and crossing each other s'o as to interlock the archisections' in their relative position.

3. Method ot' producing braided lace wherein open spaces are filled with leaflike patterns, the leaves extending in a direction substantially perpei'idicular to the longitudinal axis of the lace, which method comprises the arranging of sets of threads ivith arch-shaped sections Within said open spaces entering an'd leaving the leave's at 'one and the 's'am'e end, and interbfraiding said arch sections in a Wett-like manner with transversal threads, the latter running substantially at right angles thereto 'and being interbrai'ded With the entire set of arch sections at the central part of the leaves', but engaging only part 'of said arch sections near the edges of the leaves.

4. Braided lace having open spaces filled with leaf-likev patterns, the leaves extending in a 'direction substantially perpendicular to the main axis oi' the lace, and comprising arch-shaped sections of threads which enter and leave the leaves at one and the same end, and transversal threads running substantially at right angles thereto, said transversal threads being interbraided in a Wettlike manner with the arch sections.

5. Braided lace having open spaces filled with leaf-like patterns, the leaves lextending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the main axis of the lace, and comprising arch-shaped sections of threads which enter and leave the leaves at one and the same end, and transverse threads running substantially at right angles thereto, said transversal threads being interbraided in a weft-like manner with said arch sections and crossing each other so as to interlock the arch sections in their relative position.

6. Braided lace having open spaces filled With leaf-like patterns, the leaves extending in a direction substantially perpendicular to the main axis of the lacey and comprising arch-shaped sections of threads which enter and leave the leaves at one and the saine end, and transverse threads running substantially at right angles thereto, said transversal threads being interbraided in a weft-like manner with said arch sections at the cenvtral part of said leaves but engaging only part of said arch sections near the edges of the leaves.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

EMIL BSEBECK. 

